I have had a lot of customers of x-gen and cattracks get confused on the installation of their tracks. These instructions are not very user friendly and with their instructions I have actually had customers start to dismantle the tracks to install on there ATV'S because of there instructions.

To get the owners Manual go to www.tjdusa.com Click on documentation and scroll down to 99ct-xxx-cattrack for cattrack Manual. To get x-gen which has a better instructions scroll down to 99ct-xxx-xgen

CATTRACKs

#1 The tracks with the frames come completely assembled and ready to install. The mounting plates come connected to the torsion bars,except solid axles ATV'S which will have two front plates connected and one rear plate separately.

#2 INSTALLING FRONT TRACKS: Remove the plates from the torsion bar with the one nut and bolt connecting them. Take the plate apart which are held together with usually three bolts and put one plate on top of the lower control arm and the heavier plate on the bottom of the control arm.(MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE TORSION ARM BOLT IN THE BOTTOM PLATE WHEN INSTALLING THE PLATES OR YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE THE PLATE AGAIN TO PUT THE BOLT IN.)Connect these with the three bolts that you had taken apart earlier.Then install the tracks on the machine by looking through the 2 slots on the outside of the frame and aligning with the ATV studs.If you do not see the lug nut holes then roll the track a few inches until you see them.If you see Allen head bolts (these are the bolts that tighten the drive gear to the hub) then you have not moved the track far enough. If you have a machine that you can put in two wheel drive this helps as you will have to turn the sprocket 1/4 turn to get the last two lug nuts on. For extra protection it does not hurt to put one very small drop of Lock-tite on the stud first.

#3 INSTALLING REAR TRACKS: If the ATV has independent suspension do as you have on the front track.If the ATV has solid axle install the large plate on the frame of the ATV. This will take a little longer but also serves as a snow-plow mount and does not have to be removed later on.

#4 ADJUSTING REAR TORSION BAR: In a perfect world the manufacturer should have it already adjusted but if you want to verify adjustment.Make sure the ATV is on level ground.With the torsion bar adjusted properly you should be able to rattle the torsion bar, meaning there should be no pressure on the rubber bushings at all or just enough to keep them from rattling on dry ground.(THERE WILL STILL BE ABOUT A 3/4 INCH SPACE BETWEEN THE BUSHINGS AS DESIGNED.)If the rear torsion rod is to long it will push the front of the rear track up, if the rear torsion bar is too short it will lower the front of the rear track. You really do not want any pressure on the rubber unless you are on uneven terrain.

#5 ADJUSTING FRONT TRACKS: This is a little different then the rear. On the front you want the two idler wheels level so most of the weight of the machine is on these two wheels.The longer you make the front torsion bar the higher it raises the front of the track. The higher the front track within reason the easier it is to stear since you will be putting more pressure on the rear of the two level bogey wheels.Most of the tracks if you measure from the middle bolt of the front bogey wheel to the bottom of the ground it will be 10.5 to 11 inches.After you have done one side it is easier to see how much torsion bar is left after the nuts and adjust the other the same.

#6 SPECIAL TIP: After your first drive of 5 to 25 miles re torque lug nuts as they might seat further in the hub.